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Do not turn a Longboard from the middle.

To turn a Longboard ( or any surfboard ) you need to turn from the tail.  Fins ( Skegs ) are like a rudder on a boat.  you need to put your back foot over them.  


We can't see her back foot, but we know she is at the back off the board because the nose is up high. 

She is looking through the turn and her waist is twisting.  


If you turn from the middle, you are trying to turn the whole length of the board.  If you step back the board becomes shorter and easier to manuever.  

Her butt and head go way back of her feet, so she is leaning/falling back.  Her back foot toes are coming off the deck, which is not good. 

If you find yourself too far forward and have no time to bring your front foot back, sometimes you can bring the front toes up.  That TRANSFERS weight to the back foot, that IS good.  


Turning from the middle, there's more chance of "catching a rail", where the water rolls over the deck.  


That leads to lose of speed and the rider getting bucked off.  


To turn frontside, you need:

1) good bottom turn

2) proper place on the wave to turn

3) timing to be at the right place at the right time

4) body working with the board

5) board working with the waves energy to redirect you back down.  


Notice she times it to get the nose way over the lip. 


She pushes against the wave as the wave pushes against her.   Notice how she goes from inside rail to flat bottom to outside rail.  


Learn to turn your longboard by getting back over the fin(s).  It's not as simple as that, but atleast start with that important technique.  


Please check out  to see more.  

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How to Noseride. What to watch out for.

Walking to the nose, sounds simple, but it's not.   NO, it's not the shaking surfboard on a moving waves fault. it's the rider's technique.  Watch out for these problems.


1) Holding a wall ( orange box ) -  just as you can't hold onto a wall and ice skate properly

2) Hand above the head ( red circle ) -  that's means you're trying to "un-weight"

3) Both feet pointed to the rail ( purple circle ) -  bad ergonomics, knees bump together


When you walk on a surfboard, you need to cross step ( never shuffle ).  You also need to keep the eyes up and out to keep the body straight and head over the butt/feet.  Weight of the body pushing DOWN to keep the board set into the wave.  


Timing -  1 micro-second too early or too late, will make or break a good noseride.  She is a bit too high on the face, she needed to go lower on her bottom turn to rise up into the breaking lip.  


Patience -  Too rushed to get to the nose is bad also.   Walk to the nose, NOT Run to it.  ( no lock down of the tail and arm coming up )


Head/Body Leaning forward.  You WALK forward NOT fall forward.  If the head gets too far out front, your steps won't be smooth.  Looking down also draws you down.  


Soft Knees - Walk about 1 inch shorter than your height. Soft knees make for a sure footed pick up and put down of the feet.  ( tiny wave but still a good Lock down of the tail and arms pushing down )

Try to imagine a Ninja walking quietly in the night.     


Stiff locked out knees are bad.  There is no shock absorbers.  Also the heels pound into the deck.  Knees bang together.  


Good Noseriding, while not exactly like walking down the sidewalk, has similar actions.  Your head is over your butt/feet. You knees are not locked out stiff.  You take purposeful steps picking up and putting down the feet ( not shuffling or running ) You hands are down not flailing up over your head.  You are focused AHEAD  ( and not on your iPhone !! )


please check out the daily surf website to see more.  






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Surf Analyzer

Everyone thinks they are good at something. Maybe at Golf or Singing or Dancing, even at Surfing.  That is ............. until they see or hear themselves !


So how can we tell if we are surfing correctly or not ?   Easy........... Analyze a photo of yourself.  

Here's just one photo of my friend Keith Kajioka.  He's a shaper in Taiwan. His brand is Formosa Surfboards.  



Take a moment to analyze everything that is happening.  Take notes of what you see.  


BODY LINE -  Keith body line is strong and inline with the angle of the deck.  He is extended from right hand finger tips all the way thru his toes.


PIVOT -  Although it looks like a hinged body, his back line and butt create a PIVOT point.  Imagine sitting on the floor and shuffling your feet around your body in a circle.  


PRESSURE / Weight Distribution -   Notice his back knee is slightly bent, while his front knee is locked out.  As he comes through and hits the apex of the turn, they will switch.



TWIST - His arms are both rotating clockwise to twist the body back and "OPEN" to the wave.  Front arm leads and steers. The back arm creates the drive/power as it comes across the chest.  


ANGLE -  Look how the board is almost fully riding on the outside right rail.  Can't see, but the Left fin is almost out of the water.   Hard angles means more spray.  


VISION -  Where is Keith looking ?  He is NOT looking back to the curl to do a Round House / Full Wrapping Cutback.  He is looking to the short shoulder in front of him.  He probably wants to do a quick snap to stay in the pocket and get back to the inside rail quickly.  


TRAIL - what is the path he is creating.  Where did he come from ? Where is he going to ?  He went Down, then UP, then AROUND. 


There's even more to analyze about the wave, wind and so on.  Another good clue to see where the board/rider came from is to see the trail of the leash cord ( but can't see it here ).


So did you see all that ?  There's a saying " A photo says a thousand words ".   So go get a photo ( or better yet a video ) of yourself and analyze if you're doing the right thing at the right time on the right place on the wave.  Are you a "beginner-intermediate" or "advance-beginner" ?  You'll never know the truth until you see yourself.


Thanks Keith Kajioka / Formosa Surfboards Taiwan.    



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Everything comes after the BOTTOM TURN.

No one ever says " He's a good surfer, but he can't paddle".  Because if you can not paddle, YOU can not catch the wave. Same goes for the BOTTOM TURN.  No one says "That guy rips, but his bottom turn sucks".  Everything else comes AFTER the bottom turn.  


Fins out slash off the top.........  but how did he get there to the top ?


Hang Ten way out on the nose............ but how did he go from back to front ?  


Answer ?   Like this !!   They BOTTOM TURNED.  After getting to their feet and dropping down the face, next they drive off the bottom to set their rail and trim.   ** notice the twisting of her waist **


A Bottom Turn is the 1st turn you make.  It is the first chance to make a impression on the wave.  ( If you miss, there usually isn't a 2nd chance ( just like at the bar or disco ).  ** her back hand is front now, but will swing back to create the torque to twist the waist and board **


Be it a Pivoting, Carving, Drawn out, Squared Bottom Turn, it all is a quick change of direction. Going from pointed towards the shore to across the face of the wave.  ** notice her arms in neutral position "create" a virtual pivot point for the board to swng around **


A good BOTTOM TURN is not only needed in big powerful waves, but also very important to create speed in small waves.  ** notice board's bottom is flat to the wave and not much air under the nose **


Once she pops up, she turns and leans the inside rail into the wave.  There's way more air under the nose then when she was dropping down.  That quick direction change forces the wave (breaking one way) against you (pushing the other way), in turn which creates speed/drive/momentum. 


Another benefit of a good bottom turn is a good cutback.  The basics of a good backside bottom turn is similar to a front side cutback.   Here try to imagine she just got to her feet after paddling into a wave. 


She drops down, Opens and twists the torso, Gets the board leaned over on the inside rail (** notice the ouside fin showing ** )  then she can drive up the face into a backside cutback. ( but in this case a full wrapping frontside roundhouse )


If you want to Cutback, do Airs, Noseride, basically any move in surfing YOU NEED A GOOD BOTTOM TURN.  After a good strong paddle, everything comes after and DEPENDS on a good strong BOTTOM TURN.  


please check out to see more.  





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"When you feel the wave, paddle hard three more times, then stand up"

I heard some instructors tell their student's " When you feel the wave on you, paddle hard three more times than stand up".  That maybe okay if the wave, wind, tide, sand, board and energy of the surfer was EXACTLY the same on each wave.  


Sometimes it's better to NOT paddle more, wait for the wave to stand up more, glide, then stand up.


Notice both hands are not out of the water, gliding like a bird soaring.  Her longboards supreme float has got her on the wave, but she is waiting to get further insideb before popping up.  Notice the nose of the board close to the surface of the water. Feet hovering forward over the butt. 



Again gliding along. Her feet acts like a clutch/trottle to adjust the angle of the board to nose up or nose down more.  


The RED board's nose is to high, the more she paddles the more the board resists the wave, like a snow plow.

The Green board nose is okay, but her arms are too straight and stiff like a windmill.  Turnover rate is too slow.  


Sometimes it is better to "pause" and wait before you pop up. If you just paddle 3 times and stand up, you are not listening to the wave.  Sometimes you need to pop up quickly, sometimes wait.  


A longboard has great float and glide, but the length sometimes does not fit in the wave.  So sometimes you need to "Angle In" sideways a bit into the wave.  Notice her arched back adjusting the weight/balance of the board. 


1) Forearm deep into the water

2) Chest down

3) Eyes forward

4) Nose of the board just over the surface

5) and most important..................... a SMILE.  If you grit your teeth or hold your breath / puff your checks, it tenses you neck, shoulders, arms and hands.   Relax, smiles, whistle.  Paddle smarter - Not harder and listen to the wave. 


Surfing should not be so mechanical.  "Paddle hard three times and stand up" is not the right thing to do on every. wave.    


please check out  and  Matsunosuke Kugenuma on FB.  to see more.  

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Life is 50-50. Surfing is balancing act just like life.

Life is 50-50. Good days Bad days.  Friends / Enemies. 

Surfing too is 50-50.   tuberide / wipe out.   Someone shares a wave / some Kook drops in

But walking and nose riding is sometimes not always  50-50. 


She is Cross-Stepping.  Pressure / Balance between the feet is 50-50.  Her arms are also balanced.


Here the board is going one way and her body going the other way.  Front arm is going out to the side, while the back arm is bracing downwards.  This is too rushed and is not balanced.


Green circled foot has 95% of the body weight. Foot in violet has only 5% of the weight.  It's a smooth transfer. Head down thru the toes is balanced.  


Green is holding 100% of the weight. Violet is 0%.  End of forehead, back of the foot, ends of the finger tips are all counter-balancing.


Head getting way ahead of the feet breaks the body line and causes a falling forward effect.  Front foot at 3 o'clock and back foot at 1 o'clock makes the knees bump and difficult to cross-step smoothly.


Back foot 100%  Front foot up 0%.  Arms pushing the body down into the board to keep the board planted INTO the wave. 


Pink in 75% and Green at 25%.  Feet deliberately picked up and put down.  ** Notice the tail locked down by the lip of the wave.  Bodyline nicely balanced.


Which leads to an Un-Crossing of the feet and a nice nose ride.  


Surfing like life is 50-50.  Noseriding is a balancing act, just like life.  


Please check out to see more.    



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Speed Check - Check your Speed if you want to surf faster

Everyone wants to surf faster, but have you thought about SLOWING DOWN to SPEED UP ??


A Speed Check is when you purposely slow/stall the board down which may include a slight directional change but not really a full turn/cutback.


Here the riders spots where he wants to go, but slows down to allow the power of the wave to catch up to him. Rolling to the outside rail.  Green circle shows the curl. Orange X shows the shoulder of the wave.  


Now the wave catches up and he engages the inside rail.  The angle of thewave is now more steep.


A Speed Check is used to put yourself in the better, faster part of the wave. 


At the top of the wave, he still intends to go "down the line". He sees whats happening further away.


A quick force down the wave and landing on the flat bottom allows him to travel straighter towards the beach, NOT across the wave.  


So the wave can pop up and he can hit it vertically.  Had he gone more across the wave, he might have been pitched out sideways.  


Even on a longer board on a small wave, you can use a Speed Check.  She steps back to bring the nose up.


Then when the wave's curl gets to her, she steps up and lays the nose back down to gain speed.  


Spray goes forward to scrub off speed, but the intention is to go faster.  ( as the power of the wave's curl catches up to him ) 


Faster Surfing isn't only about what you do, but WHEN you do it and WHERE on the wave you do it.


Surfing has a lot of OPPOSITES:

To go Right, sometimes you need to go more Left first.

To go UP, you need to go DOWN first.

To go FASTER, sometimes you need to first SLOW DOWN.  


please check out the daily website and on Face Book Matsunosuke Kugenuma  for more.  




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Turning Backside

When turning to your backside ( either off the bottom turn or cutting back on the face )....... DO NOT PUT BOTH HANDS BACK.  


Regular foot surfer is turning left.  Both hands are behind his back.  He is not turning..... he is Leaning.  

( Head and butt get behind the feet.  Chest is not open to the wave )



It very rare for the hands to be in that position.  Usually you only see that when someone slips and fall backwards.  


When BOTH hands go back, there is no twisting of the shoulders, torso, waist and legs.   When the head and butt get behind the feet, it is very hard to regain balance.  To counter the falling back the hands unconsciously go back to brace the fall. 

( rider is also not looking thru the turn )


Here the rider's hands are not back........ but his back foot toes are coming off the board......  so no twist, just leaning.  

( back hand is holding a wall and front arm is locked to the body )


To turn Back Side:

1) Look thru the turn ( where you look is where you go )

2) Front hand/arm leads the turn  

3) Back arm comes across the chest to twist OPEN the torso to the face of the wave

4) Keep head over/in-line with the feet


When BOTH hands go behind your back, that is a sign the rider is Leaning NOT turning.  SO don't put your hands behind your back......... 


Unless ........... you're trying to be stylish,  riding on the nose ( well, he's got 2 feet more to go )  


please check the daily surf photos at  







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Let the wave help you.

"You can't fight mother nature".    So learn to work with the wave, not against it.  


Back Side off the lip.   He times the turn to be right on the throwing lip.  ( but not too much in the center, or he'll be upside down )  His shoulders/arms twist counter-clockwise to slam the door shut.  


Both hands grabs the waves face to let the board pivot around the body.  Energy of the wave "redirects" the board.


He sights where he wants to turn off on.  Body line is strong to set the inside rail ( he torques  the body, not leans the body ).  For a brief moment he pushes the nose down to gain speed.  The back foot raises up, but willl slam down coming out of the bottom turn.  


Shoulders/arms twists clockwise.  Back foot is way on the tail to bring up the nose over the lip of the wave.  Eyes sight the landing spot.  He pushes off the wave pushing against him.  


You can't turn just anywhere.  

Red arrow point to the curl -  too hard too bumpy to climb white water.

Yellow  arrow points to the vertical face -  too fast to get the nose up on. 

Green arrow points to the part of the wave curling back in -  good turning spot.  


Where and When is just as important to How you turn. 


Not only on the first turn but on the 2nd turn too.  As the rider cutbacks on the shoulder ................


He goes backside to the wave ( for a brief moment ) and then banks off the white water to redirect back again to frontside.


 To turn better,  work with the wave.  Let the wave help you.  


Please check out  to see more.  

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White water rebound

To continue your ride or to complete your ride, it's good to learn how to do a White water rebound.  


A good white water rebound allows you to keep going on your ride.  Instead of "kicking out" the back, you can turn down and continiue riding ( for a little bit more ).    Rider turns his shoulders clockwise, which twists his torso/waist, which turns the board's nose towards the beach. 


Here watch the riders hands.  

He sees the break lip as it's already throwing.

Board is "flat" to the wave.

Front hand is neutral


Board goes up the face "flat, not on rail.   Hands have not changed .


As the wave collapses, it throws the boards nose back towards the beach.   Hands are reaching for a invisible wall.  Body is not twisting WITH the direction of the board's rotation.  


Hands still in the same position as from the 1st frame.  Hands holding a wall.   He was a little too late, not enough on rail, body didn't twist........................ Not the best technique , but he did make the white water closeout.  


She is on the inside rail going up the face.


She gets the nose OVER the lip,  rolls from inside rail to now flat bottom, then to outside rail.  She eyes her landing point.


After the top turn, she lands flat for stability and to not catch an edge.  She looks ahead to the next maneuver.  


Learning to complete a White Water Rebound allows you to:

Keep riding further along the wave ( versus kicking out )

Practice / Improve rolling from rail to rail

Timing and Confidence


But one of the main things is you learn to work WITH the wave and not against it.   Don't force the move, learn to the let the wave help you keep going.  


please check out to see more.  





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