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<< Don't build the Wall | main | Best Volume for easy to paddle surf board. >>
Analyze surfing technique

How can you fix something if you don't first know what the problem is ?  

 

How do you know what is good if you don't know first what is bad ? 

 

Don't take my word for it,  Learn to analyze surfing for yourself. 

 

Look at the next three photos and take as many notes as you can. 

Photo #1

Photo #2

Photo #3

 

Okay got that ?   Of course the surfer is wearing a Red rashguard and has a watch on his left arm.  But look more closely at what the board and wave is doing.  

 

1) He is coming off a backside bottom turn, spray shearing off the outside rail.  Right fin coming out of the water is visible. 

2) Rider is focusing his eyes on the area right in front of the throwing lip of the curl.  

3) He lowers his front arm to create a pivot point.  ( He also lowers his butt, but is not squatting ) Palm open not closed.

4) Back arm rotates around to be in front of his chest, which twists his waist and torso into the wave.  

 

1) He intiates his turn back down, MID WAY up the face ( NOT at the top )

2) Board is rolling off the inside rail and on to the flat bottom.

3) Rider's arms are now twisting back the other way, counter-clockwise. ( His head is also cocked back down )

 

1) He hits right under the lip as it throws, not too early or too late.  ( It helps to re-direct the nose back down )

2) He always leads the action with his eyes.  He spots the landing point and how close the explosion of whitewater coming at him is.

3) He throws his weight way back on the traction pad over the tail for it to lock into the wave, since the fins might be already airborne. ( Notice his front foot back on it's heel ? )  That helps to prevent the nose from pearling and keep the board stuck to the wave, not flailing in the air. 

4) You can just make out where his back hand is ( right above his head in the photo ).  It is stuck into the wave to gain stability.  But you might say " you always tell us not to hold onto a invisible wall ".   Well this isn't invisible, it's real and can be used to help you stick the landing.     

 

Did you see all that ?   Good.  Now look at photos or videos of yourself and see if your timing and position on the wave is right.   Look at other surfer while sitting on the beach while leashing up.  Can you tell what is going to happen before the rider does it ?  

 

Analyze your surfing to get better.  ( or to help others to, that is what my surfing blog is for )  

 

Please check out Philippine Surf Report to see more.  

 

 

 

 

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