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<< The move every beginner-intermediate needs to learn. | main | Style Line Carve Push >>
( Don't ) Lean on Me.

To turn a Surfboard (Longboard, Shortboard, Funboard, Fishboard, Any board) you can not just LEAN.  

 

Yes, Leaning is part of turning.  But if you lean from the middle of the board, you will "catch a edge".  The rail will bury into the water.

 

Here you can see how flat the board is to the water line.  Front arm is locked to the hip which prevents the shoulders/waist from twisting.  Back arm unconsciously goes up.  

 

Again, trying to turn from middle of the board just leans the (whole) rail into the water.  

 

Turning from the middle.

Bracing your hands on an invisible wall.

Not twisting the chest into the wave's face. 

Front foot Toes pointed to the rail.  

All contribute to Leaning the board.  

 

That front foot toes pointed to the rail ( at 3 o'clock ) is a "Strong stance".  Like a strong grip holding a golf club.  May be good for initially going front side ........................ BUT...........

 

But when it comes time to turn back Left the other way, that "strong stance" will buck you off the board.  

Better to have front toes pointed to 1-2 o'clock.  

 

You may not know you're doing it, but your body is unconsciously trying to keep you from getting injured when falling back.  Once your brain senses you're leaning too much, it sends the arms back ( or up ) to catch yourself. 

 

When you see surfers with a hand up ( or both ) it means they are leaning.  You need to pivot and turn from the tail as you lean the board, like a motorcycle GP racers going thru a turn on the race track. 

( also a locked front arm/hand to the body makes things worse ) 

 

Butt gets way past center.  Both hands raised up. Belly button not facing thru the turn.  

 

She not only tried to turn from the middle of the board, but also on the wrong part of the wave.  Notice the chop or ripples on the face of the wave right under the nose of her board.  

( foot starts to come off the deck )

 

No "I-beam" effect.  Deck is not inline with the body.  One goes one way, one goes the other.  

 

Thrown off the board.  Well at least she's happy.   

 

So don't just Lean.  Don't turn from the middle of the board.  Turn at the right place on the wave.  

 

Please check out  Hope Cheng on FB and http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html  to see more.  

 

 

 

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