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<< "I can't turn my 7'0", should I get a 6'2" ? " | main | The move every beginner-intermediate needs to learn. >>
Should I stay HIGH or LOW on the face ?

"Should I stay HIGH or LOW on the face of the wave ?"   

"I heard you go faster if you stay on the upper third of the wave ?"


The wave is ever changing.  You need to change with it.  Speed comes from working with the changing wave.  


Riding takes off and is coming out of his BOTTOM turn.   He eyes the point where he wants to turn off of.


Hits thru the lip at the TOP.  He twisted his upper body to turn the board back down BEFORE he got to the top. 


You can't stay HIGH to do a top turn,  You need to go down first.  You can start off HIGH and drive downwards.  


BOTTOM turn.  Back arm comes across the chest.  Eyes looking to the turn point.  


TOP Turn / Turn DOWN.  Back arm rips back to twist the body.  Already eyeing the landing spot to start the BOTTOM turn all over again.  


Bottom of the wave, Middle of the wave and Top of the wave.  Rider is trimming across the face.  Sees his turn point down the line.


Goes down to the bottom to get momentum/speed to go up.


Cranks off the lip at the top.   Good surfing, Fast surfing utilizes the whole wave face,  top, bottom, middle.  


Back arm coming across the chest at the BOTTOM turn.  OPENS the door.  


Back arm rips back at the TOP.   Closes the door shut !


So don't be stuck to the rigid mindset of you must stay high on the face.  ( on the upper 3rd ).   You need to go down first to go up,  you need to come back to the curl to stay in the power.  You can NOT stay in just one place, you need to see what the wave is doing and flow with it.  That is how you get speed.  


Like they say " When they go LOW,  we go HIGH.  ( and then Low again and HIGH again )  


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