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<< Drive, Pivot and Release | main | Should I stay HIGH or LOW on the face ? >>
"I can't turn my 7'0", should I get a 6'2" ? "

Beginners see the pro's ripping it up at Kelly Slater's wave pool and that the pros are all on shortboards.  Maybe they think "riding a shorter / smaller board will help me turn ?"  

 

A longboard is about 9 feet long by 22 inches wide and about 2 3/4 inches thick.  

Volumes runs about 60 Liters to 75 Liters for modern all-around shapes.  

 

Are they harder to turn with so much volume compared to a shorter board of 54 Liters  ?

No,  if you put your back foot over the fin(s), look thru the turn, twist the body properly, put the board in the right spot at the right time............. YOU can easily turn a longer board.  

 

"But longboards are slow and only good for noseriding, not cutbacks. "   Oh Really ? 

 

You can rip on a longboard ........  and catch more waves and ride those waves farther.  

 

You can do AIRS on a longboard.   ( Well, Nelson Ahina III can ) 

The longboard is not limiting your surfing, you are.  

 

"But longboards are only for small waves."      What do you think surfers rode at Pipeline before there were shortboards ? 

 

Here the surfer takes off on a head high wave.  He is back over the fins and twisting his torso into the wave leading with the front arm opening the chest. 

 

Then he cutbacks ( comes back ) on the shoulder by closing the chest.   Notice the roll from INSIDE RAIL in the above photo and now to the OUTSIDE RAIL in this photo.   Lots of air under the nose as the rider has "made" the board shorter.  He is only turning on 3 feet of the 9 foot board.  

 

But a shorter board " Fits " better into to steeper waves. "

 

Wrong:

If you ride a shortboard wrong, there is less leeway for mistakes. 

If you have a weak paddle, you will drop in late and have a hard time popping up.   

If you turn from the middle of your board, you will catch an edge. ( no matter what size the board )

 

The girl surfer maybe be on a fancy high performance shortboard, but .........

Her body is too far back.

Her nose is too high up in the air.

She is positioned for taking off too much inside of the break, and will just ride or be caught by the soup. 

 

This girl is not 200 lbs. yet she can turn off the lip on a 9'0" longboard.  

 

Now question for you: 

 

Do baseball batters warm up with a lighter bat or heavier bat ?

To get stronger muscles do you lift lighter weights or heavier weights ?

 

And that is the secret if you can't turn a 7'0" board,   ride a BIGGER board NOT a smaller board.  

If you ride a bigger board everyday for 2 weeks, when you get back on your shorter board, it THEN will be easier.  

 

Don't go shorter, go longer.   Ask your friend if you can borrow their unused longboard or 8'0" funboard for bit.  Then after you can turn that bigger board, you'll probably have no problem turning your current 7'0".  

 

Please check out Hope Cheng on FB and http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more.  

 

 

 

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