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<< Da Pump. How to create speed. | main | "I can't turn my 7'0", should I get a 6'2" ? " >>
Drive, Pivot and Release

"What fin will give me the most Drive, Pivot and Release ?"   I don't know.  It is more up to the rider NOT THE FIN that determines Drive, Pivot and Release. 

 

Rider coming off the bottom.

"X" marks the spot of transition from inside rail to flat bottom.

Front arm rotates back to twist the shoulders/waist away from the lip.

Puts the nose over the lip and times the board to hit it at the proper moment. 

( eyes other surfer in the flats )

 

Hit's the lip SQUARE.  Meets power with power.  Pushing against the wave as it pushes against him.  

Hand is in neutral.  He will let the oncoming crashing lip re-direct his landing away from the other surfer.  

 

Again, transition from rail to bottom mark by the "X".

Hit's the lip with the wide bottom of his board, not too early - not too late.  

 

Pushing the back foot thru the board and into the thin part of the lip, ( fin just barely showing ) 

Front leg compressing to absorb some of the impact and to stabilze / get weight back over the deck.  

 

Setting up for a cutback.  His line travels from Down, to Up and then Around. 

 

Gets the board fully on rail.  Like on a knife's edge.  

Both feet strongly on the heels.

( Can't see but his back hand is in the wave. )  

 

Drive's the board thru the turn in a tight arc. ( closing radius )

Back hand creates a pivot point for the board to track around. 

Transfer of weight from back foot to front foot begins.

Nose "pokes" into the wave ( on purpose ), slightly slowing momentum at the front thus kicks out the tail as it comes around.

 

Momentum makes the nose pop out again.  

Lays his back foot over to give power to the front foot.

Knee bends and butt tucks up to start the weight shift of the body back over the board. ( That's why you need strong core muscle to pull your upper body back up ) 

Rider lays the board back down to get off rail and transition to the floaty flat bottom and later back to inside rail  

 

So what fin has the best Drive, Pivot and Release ?   The most expensive wizz-bang carbon honeycomb titanium pro signature fin won't make you turn any better if you turn at the wrong place, at the wrong time on the wrong part of your board.  

 

DRIVE comes from putting your board in the fastest part of the wave. 

PIVOT comes from putting the board at the right part of the wave that allows you to turn and working WITH the wave to direct/re-direct you.  

RELEASE happens when the fins dissengage under your control, not because you are out of control.  

 

Arrow or the Indian ?  Fin or the surfer ?

 

Please check out Eason's photography on FB to see more.  

 

 

 

 

 

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