Ki-chan no Korner

<< March 2019 | 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 >>

Mizue's Blog

new surf project

bikefactory hawaii

tm-makani blog

<< Who has priority ? Wave manners and Peak rules #1 | main | You got a nice BODY - Line >>
Who has priority ? Wave manners and Peak rules #2

Last we talked about who is right with priority  and who is wrong ( dropping in ).


But what about at a beach break or reef break that has a Right and Left breaking wave ?

Black rashguard surfer is going Left.

Light skin surfer is (trying) to go Right.

Surfer just pushing up is Dropping in on the Right shoulder.   Easy to understand.


But here surfer with the hat is at the PEAK, in the middle of two other surfers.  Here he IS going Left so the funboard guy is dropping in.  BUT if the hat surfer did go Right, the other shortboard guy would be dropping in.  Not so easy to understand for beginners trying their best to just paddle hard and stand up.


Okay, here's a easy one.  White board rider is already trimming down the line.  Blue board rider drops in.  He has to drop down with gravity and momentum.  


He might have seen the other rider and tried to pull back, but too late.  He gets pitched and blows the wave for the other rider who had priority, who is going to get crushed on the head because he lost all his speed.  


Okay four guys here. 

1) "A' pulls up and puts on the brakes seeing three paddlers in front of him.  Even if he could beat "B", he probably couldn't get around "C" and "D". 

2) "B" finished paddling and is pushing up to pop up.  

3) "C" is focused on "D".

4) "D' is focused on "B". 


"B" gets blocked/smashed by kooks paddling up the face.

"D" pulls up

"C" gets the wave and probably will never know what happened behind him.  


"A" did have priority, but he knew it wasn't worth it to go.  


Another thing to look out when you are sitting at the peak, ( other than guys wearing hats and boots ) is what leg the LEASH cord is on.  If the leash is on the Right leg, the surfer is a Regular footer.  If the leash is on his Left foot, he/she is a Goofy footer.  Most beginners have a difficult time going backside.  


If the rider dropping in is going frontside like yourself, you might be okay.  BUT if the rider is the opposite foot and not a capable surfer, most likely he will unconsciously lean back to avoid you and SHOOT the board into your legs/chest.  


So either give up and not go for your safety.  Or be proactive and get to the other side of the "kook", it may seem you gave up priority, but no, you just paddled around to clear your path.  


Surfing is hard just to paddle and work with the ocean itself.  Now you also have to deal with other surfers who just want the thrill of riding the waves ( be it their very 1st one or your 10,000th wave ).   Just try to be safe,  and even if you have "Priority", sometimes it's not worth it to get hurt.  And remember the golden rule, "treat others as you hope they treat you".  But it still sucks when some kook on a longboard goes straight on you as you're flying down the line.  


Please check out  Hope Cheng and Philippines Surf Report on FB.  





| きーちゃん | - | comments(0) | trackbacks(0) | - |
| スポンサードリンク | - | - | - | - |