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<< Rail Loading - Use but use wisely | main | Backside surfing >>
Surfing is Life

Luckily for Spring Break, me and my wife got to go back to Hawaii ............. and surf in Waikiki.

 

But before you surf, you have to pay your respects to those who have left the break. 

These Puakenikeni flowers are for Terence and Soyu who surfed Queens'

 

My wife likes to surf Queens' , the take off is slow, then speeds up on the inside.  The wave is tricky since it's a fade left go right.  

 

This flower is for Tom at Canoes'.  We always split the waves, he going left and I going right.  

 

Oahu had a lot of rainy days, you can see Diamond Head in the background covered in green foliage. 

 

Okay, said bye to our friends, now time to surf !!  

 

Come to find out we were not alone.

 

One of the true Waikiki locals was hanging out at the break.

 

Here he is cruising above Waikiki's reef bottom.

 

He didn't mind the surfers at all.

 

He would pop up and go down right between the pack at the peak.  

 

My wife throwing the "Shaka",  local Hawaiian for Hang Loose / take it easy. 

 

Surfing is Life.  To me it's not a sport, it's a lifestyle.  And just like in Life, your surfing experience can be 50/50.  Good wave / bad wipe out.  Kook drops in and dings your new board /  Locals sharing waves telling you to go for the big set.  Meeting new friends /  losing good longtime friends.    

 

Lucky to have a partner in my life that loves surfing as much as I do.

Live to Surf /  Surf to live 

 

 

 

 

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