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<< Figuring out surf board VOLUME | main | Pumping for speed - when Tic-Tacs becomes Tit for Tat >>
How to surf small mushy closeout beach break waves ?

How do you surf mushy closeout beach break waves ?   How can you turn and keep up speed in not so clean conditions ?   Easy, as the child songs goes "do a little Clap, Clap, Clap".

 

Mushy and closing out.  But still radical high performance snap.  How ?  He is using the power of two oncoming forces.  ( and hitting it on the flat bottom of his board squarely ) 

 

A good surfers "LOOKS" for point on the wave to turn off of.  Here you can see this block of water the rider turns off of.  Notice he turns / pivots of the rear of the board right over the fins.  

 

What separates the good from the average surfer is not the WHAT ( how to turn )  but the WHERE and WHEN to turn.

 

She went up the B lip at a tight angle with not so much speed.  Could she have waited and extended the bottom to turn off the oncoming A lip with more speed and trajection ?     

 

Timing and Patience are important.  But just as important is CONFIDENCE. 

You got to commit to hit the lip OR run away straighting out.  You can't do both.  

You got to believe you can make you turns.

You got to keep your eyes up and look to the future move. 

 

You can't be half-commited.  You have to go for it.  You have to have the knowledge of what the wave is doing so you can work with it.  Most of my rail to the shin bangs happen when I didn't fully commit to the turn.  When I was scared or didn't have the confidence.   Improve you technique so you gain that confidence.

 

Some people think a smaller board works better in small mushy waves since the angles are so tight.  But with a long(er) board you can get the nose to "Pop" up over the white water further and easier than with a shortboard.   Once the nose gets over the top, the wave energy redirects the board back down.  

 

Good surfers look for the best points to turn off of.  Here he turns right off the thin lip breaking in front of him.

 

the wave he was riding on and the wave coming at him combine. That energy SLAMS together, making a more powerful turn/spray.  

 

 

When you hit the lip ( always, not just in small mush ) you need to hit it as squarely and as flat as possible.  Imagine clapping with you fingers and palm not coming together,  strange huh ? 

 

Speed, Trajectory, Timing, Bodyline, Vision, Foot placement, all come together ........

 

for the rider to put 100% of his effort in to a tiny spot on the wave.  Then as the two wave collide, it pops the board and rider's butt back up so he can continue.  

 

Most of the time waves are NOT 3-5 foot, light off-shore and perfect A frames.  Conditions are usually 1 to 2 feet, on-shore and closing out.   But you CAN and need to make the most out of it.  Learn to surf with confidence and work with the wave.  Turn off of the opposing waves and work with the angles.   

 

please check out Hope Cheng on FB to see more. 

 

 

 

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