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Style Line Carve Push

Some surfers have STYLE.

Little bit of a Stylish Drop-Knee turn out on the shoulder.

 

Stylish surfers draw nice LINES across the wave.  

 

They angle and lean their board to CARVE through the surface to create those LINES. 

 

But some surfers have that extra PUSH that they add to the CARVE. 

 

Surfer really pushing through the tail with his back foot.  Back arms really comes across the chest to create even more torque.  

 

Now at the maxium apex of the turn, it's time to draw the board back in.

 

Rider rolls back onto the flat bottom after being on rail.  The curl behind him will be there to help push him back up as he transition back to the inside rail.  

 

Once you get the Basics down, you can start to add a bit of your own Style.  You can start to Push the tail even more and more harder.  You can start to do you Carves in more critical and faster points on the wave.  

 

Go back to each photo and focus on only one thing.  Just the bottom of the board,  just the right hand,  just the angle of the knee,  just the spray.   What does it tell you about Style, Line, Push and Carves ?

 

Please check out Eason Photography on FB.

 

 

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( Don't ) Lean on Me.

To turn a Surfboard (Longboard, Shortboard, Funboard, Fishboard, Any board) you can not just LEAN.  

 

Yes, Leaning is part of turning.  But if you lean from the middle of the board, you will "catch a edge".  The rail will bury into the water.

 

Here you can see how flat the board is to the water line.  Front arm is locked to the hip which prevents the shoulders/waist from twisting.  Back arm unconsciously goes up.  

 

Again, trying to turn from middle of the board just leans the (whole) rail into the water.  

 

Turning from the middle.

Bracing your hands on an invisible wall.

Not twisting the chest into the wave's face. 

Front foot Toes pointed to the rail.  

All contribute to Leaning the board.  

 

That front foot toes pointed to the rail ( at 3 o'clock ) is a "Strong stance".  Like a strong grip holding a golf club.  May be good for initially going front side ........................ BUT...........

 

But when it comes time to turn back Left the other way, that "strong stance" will buck you off the board.  

Better to have front toes pointed to 1-2 o'clock.  

 

You may not know you're doing it, but your body is unconsciously trying to keep you from getting injured when falling back.  Once your brain senses you're leaning too much, it sends the arms back ( or up ) to catch yourself. 

 

When you see surfers with a hand up ( or both ) it means they are leaning.  You need to pivot and turn from the tail as you lean the board, like a motorcycle GP racers going thru a turn on the race track. 

( also a locked front arm/hand to the body makes things worse ) 

 

Butt gets way past center.  Both hands raised up. Belly button not facing thru the turn.  

 

She not only tried to turn from the middle of the board, but also on the wrong part of the wave.  Notice the chop or ripples on the face of the wave right under the nose of her board.  

( foot starts to come off the deck )

 

No "I-beam" effect.  Deck is not inline with the body.  One goes one way, one goes the other.  

 

Thrown off the board.  Well at least she's happy.   

 

So don't just Lean.  Don't turn from the middle of the board.  Turn at the right place on the wave.  

 

Please check out  Hope Cheng on FB and http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html  to see more.  

 

 

 

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The move every beginner-intermediate needs to learn.

What's the move every beginner-intermediate needs to learn ?  The cutback ?  The snap ?  The pump ? 

 

NO.  It is the KICK OUT.  

 

The KICK OUT may seem simple, so simple you might even do it by mistake when you go up from your bottom turn and never come back down.  

 

But why is the KICK OUT so important ?  Because it saves time and energy. 

 

   

When you KICK OUT properly, the board is pointed and moving back to the take off point.  It saves time not needing to draw the board back to you by the leash, climb back onto the deck and paddle from a dead stop.  

 

If you jump off your board on the front side of the wave, you and your board will get pushed in further.  Meaning more energy spent paddling back.  

 

Your board usually ends up facing the other way and you have to spin it around and battle thru the turbulent white water.  It's more dangerous for you and others in the impact zone.  

 

So how do you KICK OUT if needed ?  You need to go UP and OVER ( with speed ).  Notice how the surfer pops the nose of the board over the lip.  

 

Then he compresses his body close to the board to be able to grab the deck with both hands. 

** Warning ** sometimes you will "miss" the grab and the board will smack you in the face.   

 

But bad things happen sometimes and there's no time to pop your board over the wave.  That's when you need to eject. 

 

This is in extreme cases.  You want to ALWAYS grab and control your board on the KICK OUT (as much as possible).  But sometimes it can't be helped.  

*** Warning *** Do NOT shoot out your board especially at a crowded beginner spot.  

 

Rider sees the wave is going to closeout. 

 

Tries to aim for a escape route.  

 

Oh oh !   Hits the eject button.    ( notice the nose is pointed sideways )

 

As the rider goes flying, the leash yanks back the board ( and the nose points to the beach ). 

 

So Learn to KICK OUT. 

Learn to turn your board from the tail, so you can turn up and out. 

Learn the wave so you know WHEN and WHERE to kick out.  

It saves Time and Energy.

It is Safer for you and for other surfers.  

 

It's a skill you need to master if you want to progress from being a beginner-intermediate surfer.  

Next time you surf, check out the local rippers / advance surfers .............. notice they always try to KICK OUT.

( not jump off their boards ).   

 

Please check out Hope Cheng on FB to see more.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Should I stay HIGH or LOW on the face ?

"Should I stay HIGH or LOW on the face of the wave ?"   

"I heard you go faster if you stay on the upper third of the wave ?"

 

The wave is ever changing.  You need to change with it.  Speed comes from working with the changing wave.  

 

Riding takes off and is coming out of his BOTTOM turn.   He eyes the point where he wants to turn off of.

 

Hits thru the lip at the TOP.  He twisted his upper body to turn the board back down BEFORE he got to the top. 

 

You can't stay HIGH to do a top turn,  You need to go down first.  You can start off HIGH and drive downwards.  

 

BOTTOM turn.  Back arm comes across the chest.  Eyes looking to the turn point.  

 

TOP Turn / Turn DOWN.  Back arm rips back to twist the body.  Already eyeing the landing spot to start the BOTTOM turn all over again.  

 

Bottom of the wave, Middle of the wave and Top of the wave.  Rider is trimming across the face.  Sees his turn point down the line.

 

Goes down to the bottom to get momentum/speed to go up.

 

Cranks off the lip at the top.   Good surfing, Fast surfing utilizes the whole wave face,  top, bottom, middle.  

 

Back arm coming across the chest at the BOTTOM turn.  OPENS the door.  

 

Back arm rips back at the TOP.   Closes the door shut !

 

So don't be stuck to the rigid mindset of you must stay high on the face.  ( on the upper 3rd ).   You need to go down first to go up,  you need to come back to the curl to stay in the power.  You can NOT stay in just one place, you need to see what the wave is doing and flow with it.  That is how you get speed.  

 

Like they say " When they go LOW,  we go HIGH.  ( and then Low again and HIGH again )  

 

Please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more.

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"I can't turn my 7'0", should I get a 6'2" ? "

Beginners see the pro's ripping it up at Kelly Slater's wave pool and that the pros are all on shortboards.  Maybe they think "riding a shorter / smaller board will help me turn ?"  

 

A longboard is about 9 feet long by 22 inches wide and about 2 3/4 inches thick.  

Volumes runs about 60 Liters to 75 Liters for modern all-around shapes.  

 

Are they harder to turn with so much volume compared to a shorter board of 54 Liters  ?

No,  if you put your back foot over the fin(s), look thru the turn, twist the body properly, put the board in the right spot at the right time............. YOU can easily turn a longer board.  

 

"But longboards are slow and only good for noseriding, not cutbacks. "   Oh Really ? 

 

You can rip on a longboard ........  and catch more waves and ride those waves farther.  

 

You can do AIRS on a longboard.   ( Well, Nelson Ahina III can ) 

The longboard is not limiting your surfing, you are.  

 

"But longboards are only for small waves."      What do you think surfers rode at Pipeline before there were shortboards ? 

 

Here the surfer takes off on a head high wave.  He is back over the fins and twisting his torso into the wave leading with the front arm opening the chest. 

 

Then he cutbacks ( comes back ) on the shoulder by closing the chest.   Notice the roll from INSIDE RAIL in the above photo and now to the OUTSIDE RAIL in this photo.   Lots of air under the nose as the rider has "made" the board shorter.  He is only turning on 3 feet of the 9 foot board.  

 

But a shorter board " Fits " better into to steeper waves. "

 

Wrong:

If you ride a shortboard wrong, there is less leeway for mistakes. 

If you have a weak paddle, you will drop in late and have a hard time popping up.   

If you turn from the middle of your board, you will catch an edge. ( no matter what size the board )

 

The girl surfer maybe be on a fancy high performance shortboard, but .........

Her body is too far back.

Her nose is too high up in the air.

She is positioned for taking off too much inside of the break, and will just ride or be caught by the soup. 

 

This girl is not 200 lbs. yet she can turn off the lip on a 9'0" longboard.  

 

Now question for you: 

 

Do baseball batters warm up with a lighter bat or heavier bat ?

To get stronger muscles do you lift lighter weights or heavier weights ?

 

And that is the secret if you can't turn a 7'0" board,   ride a BIGGER board NOT a smaller board.  

If you ride a bigger board everyday for 2 weeks, when you get back on your shorter board, it THEN will be easier.  

 

Don't go shorter, go longer.   Ask your friend if you can borrow their unused longboard or 8'0" funboard for bit.  Then after you can turn that bigger board, you'll probably have no problem turning your current 7'0".  

 

Please check out Hope Cheng on FB and http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more.  

 

 

 

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Drive, Pivot and Release

"What fin will give me the most Drive, Pivot and Release ?"   I don't know.  It is more up to the rider NOT THE FIN that determines Drive, Pivot and Release. 

 

Rider coming off the bottom.

"X" marks the spot of transition from inside rail to flat bottom.

Front arm rotates back to twist the shoulders/waist away from the lip.

Puts the nose over the lip and times the board to hit it at the proper moment. 

( eyes other surfer in the flats )

 

Hit's the lip SQUARE.  Meets power with power.  Pushing against the wave as it pushes against him.  

Hand is in neutral.  He will let the oncoming crashing lip re-direct his landing away from the other surfer.  

 

Again, transition from rail to bottom mark by the "X".

Hit's the lip with the wide bottom of his board, not too early - not too late.  

 

Pushing the back foot thru the board and into the thin part of the lip, ( fin just barely showing ) 

Front leg compressing to absorb some of the impact and to stabilze / get weight back over the deck.  

 

Setting up for a cutback.  His line travels from Down, to Up and then Around. 

 

Gets the board fully on rail.  Like on a knife's edge.  

Both feet strongly on the heels.

( Can't see but his back hand is in the wave. )  

 

Drive's the board thru the turn in a tight arc. ( closing radius )

Back hand creates a pivot point for the board to track around. 

Transfer of weight from back foot to front foot begins.

Nose "pokes" into the wave ( on purpose ), slightly slowing momentum at the front thus kicks out the tail as it comes around.

 

Momentum makes the nose pop out again.  

Lays his back foot over to give power to the front foot.

Knee bends and butt tucks up to start the weight shift of the body back over the board. ( That's why you need strong core muscle to pull your upper body back up ) 

Rider lays the board back down to get off rail and transition to the floaty flat bottom and later back to inside rail  

 

So what fin has the best Drive, Pivot and Release ?   The most expensive wizz-bang carbon honeycomb titanium pro signature fin won't make you turn any better if you turn at the wrong place, at the wrong time on the wrong part of your board.  

 

DRIVE comes from putting your board in the fastest part of the wave. 

PIVOT comes from putting the board at the right part of the wave that allows you to turn and working WITH the wave to direct/re-direct you.  

RELEASE happens when the fins dissengage under your control, not because you are out of control.  

 

Arrow or the Indian ?  Fin or the surfer ?

 

Please check out Eason's photography on FB to see more.  

 

 

 

 

 

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Da Pump. How to create speed.

How do I go faster on my surfboard ?  Some people might say to "Pump your board".   But How ? 

 

Like an bicycle air pump ? Like jumping up and down ?  How ? !!

 

Pumping is NOT UP and DOWN.    It is Resist the wave and Relax, resist and relax, resist and relax.

( notice her body weight is forcing the board down into the wave )

 

Pumping is not one big singular turn, but many small SWERVES in succession.  

 

Do not bend down to the board, but let your legs come up to your chest.  Look at the area from head to knee.  This is the COMPRESSION phase.  

 

Now on the EXTENSION phase, his legs, arms, chest, whole body resists the wave's energy flowing up.  

( notice his head stayed on the same line ) 

Board moves up and down the wave, NOT the body to the board.  

 

I've heard some people advise to lean to one side then to the other side.  But riding flat, not on rail, won't matter.  Looking down, won't matter.  Standing in the middle of the board, won't matter.  Hands bracing, not leading the turn, won't matter if you lean to one side and then the other side.  

 

You will just dig a rail and get thrown off your board.  Her expression says " I wonder if leaning was good advice ? "

 

Pumping takes technique.  Pumping takes knowledge of the wave.  Pumping takes timing. 

Go Suzuki is on his inside rail, on the tail of his board, body twisting into the wave. 

 

Then rolls to the outside tail, body twist away from the face.  In a micro second he will be back on the inside rail again. Swerve, Swerve, Swerve.  Zig-Zag Zig-Zag.  Displace water one side.  Displace water on the other side.

 

It is really really hard to find photos of surfers pumping their board because it's usually just a set up move for the big action.  

But here is the best photo I've found:

 

Full Full extension.  Resisting the wave with every inch of his body.  He is on the knife edge right in front of the curl. 

 

Then he compresses and the board flows up and out to the clear face.  

 

Pumping is an advance technique.  Beginners will get more confused and get opposite results if they don't perform the pump correctly.  My advice for beginners is to first LEARN TRIM.  Then after you learn trim, you can break trim to fall up and push down on the wave...................  and that is what PUMPING is.  

 

Please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html and Hope Cheng on FB to see more.  

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Trouble turning backside

"How can I turn backside, it's so hard to do."     Well then, don't make it any harder on yourself than it already is.  

 

A LOCKED FRONT ARM blocks your chin, which restricts the amount you can look to the left.

( Where you look, is where you go.   The more you can look, the more you can turn )

A LOCKED FRONT ARM prevents your upper body from twisting into the face of the wave. 

When you can not twist into the wave,  you unconsciously LEAN.  Butt gets past the rail and foot comes off the deck.

 

Again,  no twist means only just lean.  Front foot comes off the deck.  Back hand is bracing not coming across the chest.  He is looking down the line good, but his chin on his shoulder shows he is not twisting open to the wave.  

 

Front arm showing Right even though he is looking Left.

( Back hand is actually pointing back to the Right) 

 

Front and back arm going the opposite way of the turn.  Board is riding flat, stalling down the wave.  He is leaned back on the tail, NOT the rail.  

 

OH NO ! Is his front arm locked to the body ?  No, it is not.

Front arm is coiling up like a pitcher winding up on the mound.  

 

Front arm swings forward, opening up the shoulder, chest and belly button to the wave's face.

Back arm comes around to assist the rotation.  

Spray comes off the outside rail as he turns and leans at the same time.  

 

His hands switch positions mid way up the face to twist the body and rip the board back down.  

Back foot all the way back on is traction pad.  

 

Leading with the Elbow is bad too.   But notice where the back arm is ?  It's behind his back.  It goes there unconsciously to catch him falling back.   It's hard to turn his board because he is trying to turn from the middle of the board.  

 

Here is a bit of HAND STEERING.  But again, leading with the elbow.  No twist of the waist.  

 

He coils up as his back arm comes across.  He front arm was already forward and getting ready to .......

 

come back around and twist the upper body back the right.  Notice the spray now coming off the inside rail.  

 

Turning BACKSIDE is neccessary to good surfing.  Sooner or later you need to turn the opposite way. If you get good at a Backside Bottom turn, it will improve your Frontside Cutbacks.  

 

So make sure to not to:

1) Lock your front arm to the body

2) Lead with the Elbow 

3) Have a closed stance like the front foot at 3 o'clock. ( Place your toes at 1-2 o'clock ) 

4) Just Lean.   ( Lean AND turn together at the same time )  

 

Please check out Hope Cheng on FB to see more.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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"Push on the left rail to go left" "Lean forward to go faster" ??

I hear beginners say "I want to turn my surfboard" and "I want to go faster on my surfboard". 

 

I hear some instructors reply "Push on the left rail to go left" and "Lean forward to go faster".

 

Well, that's technically not wrong, but it's not that simple.  

 

Dropping down, setting up for the bottom turn.

1) hands are neutral but ready.

2) Eyes looking down the line and to where to turn off of.

3) Feet are in the proper 3 o'clock for the back foot and 1 o'clock for the front foot.  

4) Body is coiled but not squatting. 

 

1)  Front (Steer) arm leads the turn. ( it's behind her back in the photo )

2)  Back (Drive) arm comes forward and across the chest.

3)  Shoulder, torso and waist twist into the wave.

4)  She is turning AND leaning,  not just turn, not just lean.  

** notice you can see the outside fin**

 

Then before the apex of the turn:

1) front arm rips back down and back.

2) Body line still strong and inline with the deck. 

3) Turn is made not too far out on the shoulder and not too close to the curl. 

 

THEN SOMETHING HAPPENS.  The wave "softens" up a bit

1) So she pauses her action. Hands in neutral position. 

2) Gets off rail onto the flat bottom to gain as much float/glide as possible

3) Eyes down the line and waits for the wave to stand up and run again.

4) Keeps her head over her feet, BUT knee is angling forward to push weight forward.  

 

  

Then at the right time, twists the body and brings the back arm forward across the chest.  

 

Front side carve:

1) back arm comes around.

2) front arm down, but acting like a pointer to a pivot point for the board to turn on.

3) Front toes come up to take power away from the front and GIVE power to the back foot which is over the fin(s) and to help with the twist.

4) Bodyline strong and inline.

 

One turn made out on the face.  Now the second turn in the pocket to get back again. 

1) Body starts the roll from outside rail back to inside rail.

2) Toes push back down on the deck ( it was on the heels in the turn )

3) Back hand is in neutral position.

4) Body back on the tail to allow less of the board she has to turn. ( lots of air under the nose )

 

THEN THE WAVES STANDS UP AND RUNS ( fast ! ) So she:

1) Scoots forward on the deck. ( less air under the nose ) 

2) Gets her head over her front foot.

3) Back arm / shoulder goes back

4) Body line is angled forward but still stong over the feet.  Not leaning over the rail either way. 

 

So yes, pressure the left rail into the wave when going left and the body goes forward to speed up.  BUT .............it's not that simple.   Boards slow down in turns, so you will soon need to speed up. ( and you just can't keep turning one way, sooner or later you need to turn back ).   Plus you can't go forward too early ( or too late ).  You need to see and listen to what the wave is doing.   

 

You may know how to pressure left and lean forward.  But good surfing is knowing WHEN and WHERE to turn, speed up and slow down.  

 

Please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more. 

 

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How to Noseride. No Lock, No Noseride.

Every longboarder wants to "get to the nose".  But How do you get there ? 

 

Cross Stepping ??   Yes, but even BEFORE you take a step you need the LOCK.  

 

The LOCK is the crashing lip of the wave holding down the tail of the board so you can go to the front.  

 

Just like riding a See Saw, if you are on one end, you need someone ( or something ) on the other end to counter weight.  

 

The LOCK rolling up and over the deck, allows you to walk to the opposite end of the surfboard.  

 

Which then you can perform a "Hang Ten".  ( almost looks like she's walking on water ) 

 

The better you :

1) can control your board. ( cross-stepping, rail loading, stalling, etc. ) 

2) have knowledge of the wave.

3) can have patience to wait for the LOCK and not be rushed.  

 

All that will put you and the board in the proper place on the wave to noseride.  Stronger and Deeper the LOCK, the more it allows you to hang on the nose.  

 

If you :

1) Don't position your feet properly.

2) Don't cross-step correctly.

3) Don't Engage the rail.  ( notice board is angled away from the face )

4) Walk before the wave LOCKS the tail down.  

It will be hard to noseride.

 

1) Strong LOCK holding down the tail. 

2) Slice / sheering the face of the wave.

3) Spray coming off the outside rail only.

4) Smooth cross-steps

5) Arms pressuring the body weight down to force the board into the wave. 

6) Board not too far forward or too far back into the wave, but right there.  

 

All the set up work pays off with a nice noseride.  

 

You don't need a big wave to LOCK down the tail,  but you need the right wave.   You need to listen to the wave, to the beat of it's music.   

Some say Surfing is a dance, and noseriding definitely needs style, grace and technique to make it look easy. 

 

So before you even go to the nose,  you need to first LOCK down the tail.   

 

Surfing sometimes is Not a Solitary sport.   IT TAKES TWO to noseride.   YOU on one end of the board and the WAVE on the other end LOCKing down the tail.  Noseriding, like riding a See-Saw is no fun by yourself.  

 

please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more

 

 

 

 

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