new surf project
2016.10.22 Saturday 13:27
Walking to the nose on a surf board.
Watch the best noseriders. They're so smooth as they walk back and forth across the board to the nose. Notice the word " WALK ". Just like Race Walkers in the Olympics, a foot needs to be down at all times. Unlike Runners, where sometimes both feet are not planted.
After the lock down of the tail, the rider cross steps forward.
Cross stepping allows you to control front - back - and side to side movements. If you walk " normally "like you do on the side walk, it tends to rock the board or make the board jerky.
The cross step walking also helps to keep the head over the butt. Notice the soft knees.
If you run, one foot usually isn't planted firmly on the deck. Rushing the movement is not good.
Quick steps are good, Rushing / Running is not.
Here, smooth steps firmly planted. Feet are in a "T". She is crossed.
Now un-crossed her feet are in a "L" pattern.
Cross stepping is vital ( and very beautiful ) to walking to the nose.
Everyone has learned to walk since they were babies. But for walking on a surfboard, you need to cross step.
Please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more walking
2016.10.15 Saturday 10:24
Steering a Surfboard
We steer usually with our hands.
Car Steering wheels
Bicycle Handle bars
Even boats we steer with our hands.
In Surfing, you point in the direction you want to turn. BUT ..... use your feet to steer the board.
BE CAREFUL not to point only with your fingers.
Here she is looking Right and her board is pointed Right. BUt her body is showing LEFT. Her heels on her front foot is coming up. Only her fingers are pointing Right, everything else is leaning Left.
With the elbow locked to the body, only the wrist and fingers point Left. Open your arms out to lead the board.
Again arm locked to the body blocks the twisting of the hips and turning of the shoulders.
She is leading more with the Hip, than with her hand.
When you steer a surfboard:
1) Look in the direction you want to go
2) Hand and extension of the arm leads the turn of the shoulder
3) Waist and Hip twists that leads down to the feet
Open up your arms. Don't only steer with your fingers.
please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more steering.
2016.10.08 Saturday 14:09
Learning to go Back side helps your Front side.
To surf better Front side ( turn, cutback, bottom turn, snap and pump for speed ), learn to surf better Back side.
Backside carving back from the shoulder, Front arm coming across the chest. Outside rail.
Bouncing off the white water, now on inside rail. Front arm leading the way as back arm comes across chest.
Front arms rips back from open to close. Strong body line from head thru the feet onto the board.
Now look here the same surfer going Front side
Arms twisted to the waves face. She is stalling a bit to let the wave build/stand up more.
Carving back from the shoulder. Front arm leading the way for the back arm to come across the chest. ( Notice palm open on front hand, palm closed facing down on the back hand )
Bouncing off the curl. The white water helps to redirect you the other way. Arms rips over to close the body. In the before photo, the body was "open". Strong body line in both photos.
Go back and look how similar the photos are for frontside and backside but on different part of the wave. A back side bottom turn is similar to a Frontside cutback, and vice-versa. Improving your backside surfing, IMPROVES your frontside surfing.
Please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more backside and frontside surfing.
2016.09.24 Saturday 15:11
When 3 + 1 = X
If your front foot is at 3 o'clock ( 9 o'clock for Goofy footers ), it makes it hard to turn your surfboard.
The legs should push down and steer the board, BUT when the knees come together, it locks out the movement.
If the front foot at 8 o'clock ( 4 o'clock for Regular footers ) and the back foot at 10 o'clock ( 2 o'clock for Regular footers ) it forces the knees inwards. Creating a " X ".
3+1 stance or 3+3 stance is not good. Best is back foot at 3 o'clock and front foot around 1 o'clock.
With the incorrect stance, it makes you SQUAT down. Your body lowers to the board, not the board into the water.
It's hard to put pressure on the back foot if the front foot is pointed to the rail.
Don't let your knees come together, it cuts the power and mobility to turn your board.
3 + 1 = X is not true in MATH , but it is in Surfing.
Please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html for more daily surf photos.
2016.09.17 Saturday 16:26
Back Side cutback. Open the door, slam the door shut.
To perform a backside cutback better, think "Open the door then SLAM the door shut".
Front arm opens the door ( back of the hand facing the wave )
Rider's front arm is lower than the back arm during the bottom turn.
Then the hand goes from way up high, to way down below the body. Slamming the door shut.
This is one photo before the compression of the legs. His front hand will go down, up then around.
Open of the door ( and Chest ). Closing of the door shut ( and the chest closed too )
Same principle for Long(er) boards. Open-Shut. Down-Up-Around. Nice strong bodyline thru the board. Eyes leading the turn.
BE CAREFUL ! You just can't swing the door wide, out of control. After you engage the inside rail, you then have to roll the board back onto the outside rail ( and close the door ). Leaning not turning, will just make you fall back.
Backside surfing can be more fun ( and powerful ) than frontside. Learn how to Open the door and Slam the door shut.
Please check out the daily surf photos at http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more.
2016.09.10 Saturday 10:22
front foot at 1 back foot at 3
Proper stance is important to good surfing. Proper stance is even MORE important to walking on a surfboard.
Just from one photo, it is hard to tell if the rider is a beginner or advanced. But I could see her back knee is facing forward.
When she takes a step, you can see her back foot was a 1 and her front foot was at 3. It causes the knees to bump. Also her hands raises instead of pushes down.
When you do your first cross step, that back foot crosses over the front. 3 over 1.
If 1 crosses over 3, the knees is in a awkward stance. Try standing feet cross like in this photo. Then try standing like in the photo one above. Which seems more balanced ?
The 1 crossing over 3, causes the front leg to stiffen up. ( Try do that while having the front knee bent, it's hard to do ). That causes the HIP to lean out, breaking the important bodyline.
Keeping the head over the butt and feet is important to smooth cross stepping. Eyes are up and arms are not above the shoulders. 3 crosses over 1.
Again start with your back foot at 3 and your front foot at 1. Then cross 3 over 1, then uncross 1 over 3.
one more time and you should be near the nose. Remember to keep your eyes up, head over your butt and arms down.
please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html for more 1 o'clock and 3 o'clock or vice-versa.
2016.09.03 Saturday 15:07
The ( surfer ) Boys of Summer
It's almost the end of summer, so now is all the Highschool Baseball tournaments. Everyone wants to see the pitcher strike out the batter. but what happens right before the pitch ? The WIND UP.
Here's the off the lip, the exciting part that gets the photos. Just like the Pitch.
But before that was the WIND UP. No wind up = No pitch.
Back hand in front moments before ripping back. Front hand in pause.
Back hand provides the POWER, Front hand STEERS.
Just like a pitcher winding up, a surfer twists back right before the main action forward.
How much twist ? When to act ? That whats separates the beginner/intermediates from the advanced surfers. Here is the split moment before the BIG action.
Notice his back elbow is HINGED. That is like a clutch, absorbing the torque. But at a certain moment, he will release the clutch and let the power go.
Look at videos or sequence shots of surfers. Try to see the moment and action right before the cutback, air, bottom turn, etc. They wind up , just like baseball and soft ball pitchers do.
please check out http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more winding up and letting go
2016.08.27 Saturday 12:45
"To turn, just lean to side you want to go to."
I've heard many instructors say " To turn your surfboard, just lean to the side you want to go to." But you have to make sure the body is still INLINE with the surfboard.
Leaning Front side out of the Bottom turn. Her body line matches the lean angle of the board.
Here a bit more angle than the board. His body leads the action of the board.
Twisting, Leaning, Turning.
Her torso leans forward, but her butt sticks out. That hinge of the body, breaks the bodyline. Most of the weight is behind the angle of the board.
Strong angles of BOTH the body and board leads to good turning.
Eyes up, Back arm ready to swing back. Board on the flat bottom starting to roll to the inside rail.
Back arms rips back, Torso twist, board leans and turns clockwise with the body.
Yes, lean in the direction you want to turn. But LEAN, TWIST, TURN and Keep a strong bodyline if you want to turn better.
Please look at the daily surf photos at http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more LEAN.
2016.08.20 Saturday 14:13
Rail Loading on a surfboard to noseride.
Noseriding is more than just walking to the nose. You need to stall, lock the tail, walk using a cross step, and Load the Rail.
As she goes right, she walk on the right side of the board. Notice the left rail is high off the water surface.
Uncrossing, her back foot is set in the middle of the stringer line.
Her front foot lands NOT on the stringer, but to the side of it.
Crossing stepping on the INSIDE rail. Both of her heels on on the right side of the board.
This locks in that rail, Majority of the right rail is stuck into the wave. Tail is fully locked down.
Very easy to see here. When you walk, walk along the inside rail. Back side or Front side it doesn't matter.
Watch the good noseriders cross step and get to the nose. Which side of the board do they walk on ?
Please check http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see more LOADING
2016.08.13 Saturday 09:05
steering a surf board
A lot of instructors and I say, " Point where you want your board to go ". But you have to point with your fingers correctly.
She is steering with her front hand right, but her shoulder is "closed", showing left.
Her front hand is trying to steer the board. But her left arm is locked to the body. It restricts the body from turning. Also her back hand should be in front of her chest, not behind her back.
He wants to turn Left going backside. His left hand is trying to steer the board, but his shoulder is locked to the body. Notice his chin is stuck to the shoulder. He leans back not turn, because he can't twist at the waist.
One hand is steering, one hand is reaching back. Back leaning away from the wave, not twisting away.
Her back hand is flowing through a wide arc in the direction of the turn. Front hand leads the way to "open" the chest.
Strong body line and twist of the waist.
"Point where you want to go" but point correctly.
please check the daily surf website http://starb.on.coocan.jp/daily/daily0.html to see pointing
T.Jays surf dialy